Body & Exterior

Bed Floor and Side Replacement - Square Body Trucks

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SquareBodyAI
9 min read Updated 3 days, 16 hours ago

Bed Floor and Side Replacement - GM Square Body Trucks (1973-1987)

Overview

Bed floor and side replacement is one of the most common restoration projects for GM Square Body trucks (C10, C20, K10, K20, K5 Blazer, and Suburban). After 35+ years of service, the truck bed components are frequently compromised by rust, corrosion, and physical damage from hauling cargo. This comprehensive guide covers the complete replacement of bed floors, bed sides, tailgates, and associated hardware.

The bed replacement process involves removing the existing bed components, addressing any frame rust, and installing new reproduction or OEM parts. This project typically requires intermediate to advanced mechanical skills and can take 15-25 hours depending on the condition of the existing bed and chosen approach.

Why This Matters:
- Restores structural integrity for safe hauling
- Prevents further rust spread to cab and frame
- Significantly improves vehicle appearance and value
- Allows inspection and repair of hidden frame areas

Common Issues

Rust and Corrosion Patterns

Floor Pan Deterioration:
- Corner rot at rear wheel wells (90% of trucks affected)
- Front bed mount areas where moisture collects
- Tailgate contact zones from repeated impact
- Drain plug areas in 8-foot beds

Bed Side Problems:
- Lower rear corners behind wheel wells
- Stake pocket deterioration from galvanic corrosion
- Inner wheelhouse separation from outer skin
- Fuel filler area rust (passenger side)

Frame-Related Issues:
- Rear crossmember rot requiring replacement before bed installation
- Bed mounting bracket corrosion
- Frame rail deterioration at bed mount points

Physical Damage

  • Dented or creased bed sides from cargo damage
  • Bent tailgate frames from dropping heavy loads
  • Cracked welds at stress points
  • Missing or damaged hardware (tailgate chains, latches, etc.)

Parts & Materials Needed

Primary Components

Bed Floor Assemblies:

Short Bed (6.5'):
- LMC Truck: 34-4073 (1973-1987)
- Classic Industries: BF6587

Long Bed (8'):
- LMC Truck: 34-4074 (1973-1987) 
- Classic Industries: BF8587

Bed Sides (Left/Right pairs):

Short Bed Sides:
- LMC Truck: 34-4075/34-4076
- Brothers Trucks: GM-BS-6587-L/R

Long Bed Sides:
- LMC Truck: 34-4077/34-4078
- Brothers Trucks: GM-BS-8587-L/R

Tailgates:

Standard Tailgate:
- LMC Truck: 34-4080 (1973-1987)
- Part Number: 14045492 (GM OEM)

Step-Side Tailgate:
- LMC Truck: 34-4081 (1973-1987)

Hardware and Fasteners

Bed Mounting Hardware:
- Bed bolts: 3/8" x 1.25" Grade 8 bolts (8 required)
- Flat washers: 3/8" zinc-plated (16 required)
- Lock washers: 3/8" split-ring (8 required)
- Bed strips: Rubber mounting strips between bed and frame

Tailgate Hardware:

Tailgate Chain Kit: LMC 34-4085
Tailgate Latch Assembly: LMC 34-4087
Tailgate Hinge Kit: LMC 34-4088

Tools Required

Essential Tools:
- Impact gun with 1/2" and 9/16" sockets
- Cut-off wheel or reciprocating saw
- MIG welder (minimum 140-amp capacity)
- Angle grinder with cutting and grinding discs
- Engine hoist or bed dolly for handling
- Torque wrench (50-100 ft-lb range)

Specialty Tools:
- Spot weld cutter for clean panel separation
- Panel clamps for alignment during welding
- Bed lifting brackets (LMC 99-4012)

Materials and Supplies

Welding Supplies:
- ER70S-6 welding wire (0.030" diameter)
- C25 shielding gas (75% Argon, 25% CO2)
- Weld-through primer for joint protection

Rust Prevention:
- POR-15 or Corroseal rust preventive paint
- Ospho phosphoric acid rust treatment
- 3M 08008 Body Schutz undercoating
- Bed liner material (spray-in or drop-in)

Step-by-Step Guide

Phase 1: Removal and Assessment

Step 1: Bed Removal
1. Disconnect tailgate chains and remove tailgate
2. Remove bed mounting bolts (8 total - 4 per side at frame rails)
3. Disconnect wiring for tail lights and fuel sender (if equipped)
4. Lift bed assembly using engine hoist or 4-person crew
- Weight: Short bed ~300 lbs, Long bed ~400 lbs
- Lifting points: Use bed rail reinforcement areas

Step 2: Component Separation
1. Cut spot welds connecting bed sides to floor
- Location: Every 2-3 inches along bottom flange
- Tool: 3/8" spot weld cutter bit
2. Remove tailgate mounting hardware
3. Separate bed sides from floor assembly
4. Document damage and measure replacement needs

Step 3: Frame Inspection and Repair
1. Inspect rear crossmember for structural integrity
2. Check bed mounting points for rust or damage
3. Replace crossmember if more than 25% compromised
4. Treat surface rust with phosphoric acid solution
5. Prime exposed metal with weld-through primer

Phase 2: Floor Installation

Step 4: Floor Preparation
1. Test fit new floor against frame rails
2. Mark drain hole locations (8-foot beds only)
3. Apply weld-through primer to all mating surfaces
4. Install rubber bed strips on frame rails

Step 5: Floor Mounting
1. Position floor assembly using alignment jig or measurements
- Front-to-back position: 1/2" gap from cab
- Side-to-side: Centered on frame rails
2. Install bed bolts finger-tight initially
3. Check diagonal measurements for square alignment
4. Torque bed bolts to 35 ft-lbs in cross pattern

Phase 3: Side Panel Installation

Step 6: Side Panel Preparation
1. Check panel fitment against installed floor
2. Adjust flanges if necessary for proper alignment
3. Apply weld-through primer to all joint areas
4. Install tailgate hardware before final welding

Step 7: Welding Sequence
1. Clamp panels in position using panel clamps
2. Tack weld every 6 inches to maintain alignment
3. Complete seam welding in 2-3 inch segments
- Settings: 18-20 volts, 180-200 IPM wire speed
- Technique: Push angle, 10-15 degree travel angle
4. Allow cooling between segments to prevent warpage

Step 8: Finish Welding
1. Grind weld seams flush with surrounding metal
2. Apply seam sealer to all joints
3. Prime welded areas immediately after grinding
4. Install stake pockets and bed rail caps

Phase 4: Final Assembly

Step 9: Hardware Installation
1. Install tailgate hinges with 15 ft-lb torque spec
2. Adjust tailgate alignment for even gaps
3. Install tailgate chains with proper length adjustment
4. Test tailgate operation and latch engagement

Step 10: Protective Coatings
1. Clean all surfaces with degreaser
2. Apply rust preventive primer to underside
3. Install bed liner or apply protective coating
4. Reinstall tail light assemblies

Year/Model Differences

1973-1980 vs 1981-1987 Variations

Fuel System Differences:
- 1973-1980: Side-mounted fuel tank with bed-mounted filler
- 1981-1987: Frame-mounted tank with cab-mounted filler
- Impact: Earlier trucks require fuel filler integration in passenger bed side

Tail Light Configurations:

1973-1980: Round tail lights
- Mounting: 4.5" diameter holes
- Wiring: 3-wire system

1981-1987: Rectangular tail lights  
- Mounting: Rectangular cutouts
- Wiring: 4-wire system with separate turn signals

Model-Specific Considerations

C10/K10 vs C20/K20:
- Bed dimensions: Identical between half-ton and three-quarter ton
- Mounting hardware: Same bolt pattern and specifications
- Load capacity: Bed construction identical despite different frame ratings

Step-Side vs Fleet-Side:
- Step-side: Separate running boards, different side panel configuration
- Fleet-side: Integrated design, more common reproduction availability
- Interchange: Not compatible - completely different mounting systems

K5 Blazer Considerations:
- Shortened bed: Uses modified short-bed components
- Tailgate: Specific to Blazer, not interchangeable with pickup
- Spare tire mount: Integrated into bed floor design

Suburban Applications:
- Cargo floor: Similar construction but different dimensions
- Side panels: Taller configuration for passenger area
- Parts availability: More limited reproduction options

Tips & Best Practices

Professional Techniques

Welding Best Practices:
- Stitch weld long seams to prevent heat distortion
- Use backing plates on critical structural joints
- Maintain consistent travel speed for uniform penetration
- Clean base metal to bright steel before welding

Alignment Strategies:
- Build jigs from 2x4 lumber for consistent positioning
- Use laser level for bed rail straightness verification
- Check measurements at multiple points during assembly
- Test fit tailgate before final side panel welding

Cost-Saving Approaches

Budget-Friendly Options:
- Patch panels for localized rust repair vs full replacement
- Used OEM parts from salvage yards in dry climates
- DIY bed liner application vs professional spray-in
- Gradual replacement - floor first, sides later

Premium Approaches:
- EDP-coated reproduction parts for maximum corrosion resistance
- Professional media blasting of frame components
- Spray-in bed liner with lifetime warranty
- Stainless steel hardware for all fasteners

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Critical Errors:
- Skipping frame inspection - hidden rust will continue spreading
- Improper bed alignment - causes tailgate fit issues
- Insufficient rust treatment - premature failure of new components
- Over-welding - causes heat distortion and panel warpage

Quality Issues:
- Using wrong primer - standard primer vs weld-through primer
- Inadequate cleaning - oil and dirt contamination in welds
- Rushed timeline - proper curing time for primers and sealers
- Missing drain holes - water accumulation leads to premature rust

Troubleshooting

Fit and Alignment Issues

Problem: Tailgate won't close properly
- Cause: Bed sides not square or tailgate hinges misaligned
- Solution: Check diagonal measurements, adjust hinge mounting
- Specification: Gap should be 3-5mm around tailgate perimeter

Problem: Bed sides don't align with floor
- Cause: Floor not properly positioned or frame damage
- Solution: Verify bed bolt torque, check frame straightness
- Tool: Use bed alignment jig or string line method

Problem: Water pooling in bed corners
- Cause: Inadequate welding or missing drain provisions
- Solution: Drill 1/4" drain holes at low points, seal all joints
- Location: Rear corners and front bed mount areas

Welding Problems

Problem: Burn-through on thin metal
- Cause: Excessive heat or incorrect technique
- Solution: Reduce voltage, increase travel speed, use pulse settings
- Settings: 16-18 volts for 20-gauge reproduction panels

Problem: Poor weld penetration
- Cause: Contaminated base metal or insufficient heat
- Solution: Clean to bright metal, increase voltage 2-3 volts
- Verification: Cross-section test welds on scrap material

Problem: Weld porosity
- Cause: Moisture, rust, or shielding gas issues
- Solution: Preheat panels, verify gas flow rate (25-30 CFH)
- Prevention: Store welding wire in dry environment

Rust Recurrence

Problem: New rust appearing within 1-2 years
- Cause: Inadequate surface preparation or moisture intrusion
- Solution: Strip to bare metal, apply proper rust preventive system
- System: Ospho treatment → POR-15 → topcoat

Problem: Galvanic corrosion at stake pockets
- Cause: Dissimilar metals without proper isolation
- Solution: Apply dielectric compound, use stainless fasteners
- Prevention: Regular inspection and maintenance schedule

Problem: Frame rust continuing to spread
- Cause: Incomplete frame treatment during bed replacement
- Solution: Remove bed, treat frame comprehensively
- Method: Media blast → phosphoric acid → primer → paint system


This article represents established knowledge and best practices for GM Square Body truck bed restoration. Always consult service manuals and follow proper safety procedures when performing these repairs.